31 October 2012

Key to Chianti: secondo giorno, Panzano & Greve

secondo giorno, PANZANO and GREVE IN CHIANTI


perfect porcini mushrooms

No guide book, friend or local told us about Nerbone di Greve  A heavenly display of perfect porcini mushrooms whispered in Chef's ears from across Piazza Matteotti. The charm of this spot is the fact that it is not in the major guide books and serves up great Tuscan cuisine. While Michelin restaurants do frequent Greve in Chianti,  this spot ticked the right boxes by offering rustic flavours using quality produce, a casual atmosphere and  baby friendly. 

chillis, panzano's sunday market

locals at panzano market

We enjoyed the local Sunday farmers' market in the quiet town of Panzano and then strolled over to the celebrity butcher's shop,  L'Antica Macellerìa Cecchini

I soon realised Dario Cecchini's high status in the village when a local artist's window display was of a painting of a bright red bistecca with CECCHINI painted across it and an arrow pointing up the road towards the macellerìa. It was, in fact, how we found the shop. 
Cecchini at the block
Cecchini is the reason people come to Panzano.The larger than life owner, Dario Cecchini was behind the counter preparing customer's orders the day we were there. He's a perfectionist when it comes to butchering top quality meat. Even after 35 years in the business, he continues to perfect his skills at the block. He also has three well established restaurants that, unfortunately, we did not have a chance to try as two are closed on Sundays and the other requires reservations.  
antica macellerìa falorni, greve in chianti
Antica Macellerìa Falorni, is another famous butchery established by the Falorni family back in 1729. If you have any aversion to pork.... steer clear! 

As you open the door, bold smells of curing prosciutto wisps through your nose. Your eyes are drawn up to the ceilings lined wall to wall with ageing meats, antique butcher tools and garlic. 

The store was packed with tourists, locals and lots of pork. A gorgeous cheese cave on the lower ground was  a fun discovery and deserves a mention along with the prized sows. 

pork, pork, pork
♥ ♥ ♥

these little pigs went to market

♥ baked porcini mushroom, truffle & mozzarella at Nerbone di Greve  
 watching butcher Dario Cecchini craft his cuts of meat for customers ♥ the cheese cellar and antique butcher tools on display at Antica Macelleria Falorni   



mangiare ävisitare µ, e l'amore 

primo giorno, SIENA
terzo giorno, SAN GIMIGNANO
quarto giorno, PIENZA
cinque giorno a otto giorno, FIRENZE 

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